THE SECRET AMALFI COAST RESTAURANTS YOU CAN ONLY REACH BY BOAT

On this coast, the best lunches have no road. You arrive by boat, barefoot, and you stay a whole afternoon.

There is a secret geography on the Amalfi Coast and in Capri that is not in the guidebooks, and that you learn only with time. It is the geography of the right tables, of the beach clubs you can only reach by water, of the lunches that begin at noon and end when the light changes. It was from that geography that some of the names in this collection were born.

Da Adolfo, on Laurito beach. A wooden boat with a red fish painted on its mast sets off from the Positano quay and carries you to a beach with no road, where the mozzarella is grilled over lemon leaves and the white wine is chilled in a basket in the sea. Da Adolfo is one of the loveliest rituals on the coast, and it has to be booked days ahead.

Lo Scoglio, in Marina del Cantone. Beyond Positano, on the Sorrentine peninsula, is the table to which half of Italy rows for lunch. The family that has run it for generations serves the catch of the day and courgette spaghetti at the water's edge. Scoglio means rock, and it was this restaurant, adored by those who seek the authentic over the visible, that gave its name to one of the collection's necklaces.

La Fontelina, at the foot of the Faraglioni. In Capri, with no road, only a path along the cliff and a boat back, La Fontelina has the most turquoise water on the island and the spirit of a beach club that never needed to promote itself. From it came the name of the Fontelina necklace, that strand of white shells made for a swim before lunch on the rocks.

Da Luigi ai Faraglioni. On the other side of the rock arch, La Fontelina's historic rival serves the same view from another angle. You arrive by boat, you lunch with your feet almost in the water, and you understand why this stretch of sea has held people captive for decades.

La Canzone del Mare, in Marina Piccola. In the thirties, the singer Gracie Fields built her beach club here, and Capri gained its song of the sea. The name, and the easy romance of the place, gave rise to the Canzone necklace and earrings, of a red heart among white and blue beads.

What these tables have in common is not the food; it is the attitude. You go barefoot, unhurried, with little. A swimsuit that moves from the sea to the table effortlessly, a piece of jewellery that withstands the salt and the light. That is the right wardrobe for the coast: light, resolved, made to last the whole afternoon and the whole summer.Sofia Godinho